A few weeks ago, when I first arrived in Lisbon, I wandered through Alfama – the city’s oldest district – and stumbled upon a charming little café with a terrace. I’d been walking all day and needed a break. Alfama is basically one giant staircase, and my goal had been to reach the top for the view. But this place caught my attention and made me stop.
I liked the vibe so much that when I paid, I asked if I could play a concert there someday. And today, nearly four weeks later, it’s happening: not a busking set, but an actual gig in a restaurant.
Getting there? Brutal. Dragging my trolley through Alfama’s narrow alleys and endless steps is a challenge in itself.
I play three sets of 30 minutes each, get paid 50€, collect some nice tips, and enjoy a delicious dinner on the house. The owner and his wife are lovely people, running this little gem with heart and soul. Still, it’s not easy – they talk about unfair competition and the challenges of staying afloat in a tourist-heavy area. But you can feel the love in every detail.
My tip for Alfama:
Have dinner and some wine at O Corvo – that’s where I played.
Then take a stroll to Tipica Alfama – this place blew my mind.
Live music at least five nights a week, and I basically lived there this week.
The bands usually start around 10:30 p.m. and play late into the night.
Highly recommended!
