I’ve been in Lisbon since mid-February, and today is March 25th. No joke – it’s been raining every single day so far. Not exactly ideal conditions for a street musician.
My journey started on February 2nd, and I’ve been living in my little VW van ever since. The cold, wet days caused so much condensation inside that mold began creeping in. Ventilation didn’t help, neither did the hopeful sock filled with rice I hung up. Let’s just say: unpleasant.
Most of my time I’ve spent in the Alcântara library – reading, learning, and slowly falling in love with the neighborhood. Gentrification hasn’t hit as hard here as in other parts of Lisbon. Still, the minimum wage is €720, and most people pay over €800 for rent. And yes, the far-right is on the rise here too. But that’s another story.
Today, finally: sunshine! And the forecast for the next few days looks equally bright. My mood lifts, and I head out again. I play down by the Torre de Belém. Still without a license – but honestly, I stopped caring. I’ll take the risk.
After about an hour, an older lady approaches me with a flute. She politely but firmly tells me she’s about to start playing and that she’s always here – officially licensed. So, I pack up, a bit heavy-hearted, and end today’s adventure.
Flute vs guitar.
Today, the flute won.
Belém Recommendations
Yes, every guidebook says it – but trust me, it’s worth it:
Grab a six-pack of Pastéis de Nata at “Pastéis de Belém” for €9.
Sprinkle some cinnamon on top and devour all six while they’re still warm.
Afterwards, walk it off at the Tropical Botanical Garden – or, if it rains, justify it with a cultural detour to the MAAT museum.
